Tuesday, November 18, 2008

Kirtan Chanting and Allah Akhbah



I used to live across the dry river bed from the Oasis gardens and the Orange Erg Chebbi Dunes beyond, in southern Morocco. One late morning, I headed for the dunes with my soccer ball, to give my body some massaging in the warm sand. As I crossed over, three children joined me, with great big smiles. It was a unique experience for they had not come to ask for dirham or candy. I invited them to walk with me past the gardens, into the dunes. Their mother worked nearby in their garden patch.

Aisha, 10, Armina, 12, and their little brother Yusseni, played in the sand near to me, as I rolled in the sand, over my soccer ball, massaging my back. It was very quiet. Just the gentle voices of happy children, and Aisha and Armina began to build a little tent over my face with my scarf and twigs, to shield me from the winter sun.

Later as we walked back to their mud brick home in little Hassilabied, Aisha and Armina were singing Allah Ackbah (god is great)!!! over and over, and later I realized that is what the caller from the mosque is saying as he calls people to prayer. Their older sister, Fatima, greeted us from the kitchen. In the common room, we sat in the corner with cushions around a little low round table, and the couscous plate was brought out. I sat around the table with the four children and their mother as we ate with our spoons the delicious vegetable, chicken couscous platter. We were smiling alot, and as we finished,
tea was poured and the girls began sharing with me songs. I asked if they would like to learn one of my songs, and I taught them Jaya Jaya Shiva Shambo (hail to the divine that dwells within all). As they sang, big joyous smiles appeared on their faces again and again. When we finished Aisha would say, "otra vez?" "again?". As 17 year old Fatima sang she beat rythms on the wooden table. Their mother sang along as she crafted cloth camels.

Every time I thought it was time to get up and go, the girls were starting a new song. Their singing was so full of joy, I could not resist another song.
I had found my fellow musician chanters.

The next day, I was at Aisha's house and Moussa, a young man from neighboring Rissani, who works at the hotel, brought his electric piano, and he sang arabic devotional songs. Again, I was so moved by his complete joy, as he sang.

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